Just for friends

Have you broken Federal Law in your Bathroom?

2012-01-04T07:43:00.000-08:00

It would be a bad way to begin the new year - by breaking federal law, so, in the spirit of transparent bathroom glass doors, I thought I might share this news alert:Are you aware that you may be breaking federal law if you are not cleaning your toilet bowl according to the directions on your cleaning product label?The cleaning product in question is regular bleach.Please read the label of your regular bleach product carefully. You may note as I noted this wording:Directions for Use: It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.I am worried that if I do not follow the procedure, this could be extremely risky:Here's the procedure for toilet bowl cleaning:"To sanitize and deod0rize pre-cleaned toilet bowls, use 1 cup of this product." What if I only have half a cup of product left? Must I buy a new container of bleach to remain consistent with the labeling?"Flush, pour in bleach, swab with brush making sure to get under rim." This makes good sense. Getting on under the rim is crucially important and the whole procedure would be a complete failure if one didn't get under the rim so from a strategic viewpoint, let's make sure that we all get under the rim and the world will be a better place for it."Let stand for 10 minutes" Here's where I am worried. Are you letting your bleach stand for ten minutes? Because, quite honestly, I think I may have failed to wait that complete 10 minutes - and, would this be considered to be inconsistent with the labeling directions? Is that ten minute standing period negotiable?"Flush. Do not use with bowl cleaners or any other household chemicals." This is where you want to be really careful.Apparently very strange things may happen if you should mix up procedure #1 which requires a 'pre-cleaned' toilet bowl.For example, if the slightest residue of the previous products you may have used (for pre-cleaning) should have mixed with the bleach you are currently using, all bets are off. Strange things may happen - case in point - avoid at all costs the interaction of bleach with cat pee. Trust me. I would not give you this warning otherwise.Bleach is a handy product to keep your home tidy, but it also needs to be used properly according to label guidelines.Isn't it nice to know that your government is watching out for your and wants to keep you safe?Here's a toast to clean homes and clean living!

European Designed Bathrooms?

2011-12-12T04:29:00.000-08:00

Happy Holidays et Bonne Annee aux amis en France!!!Parisgirl has returned to Cyberland after an entire year of condo renovation in south Florida.Pour nos amis Europeans, je vous donne un conseil - gratuit:N'achetez jamais une propriete en Floride avec des travaux 'a faire'.Nous avons un proverbe en anglais: "Time flies when you're having fun."Quant aux renovations en Floride: "Money flies and you're not having fun."Quick translation:Here's some free advice folks:Don't ever buy a property in Florida with 'a little work to be done', (unless you're a contractor or very handy).And if you're still foolish enough not to heed this advice, you had better have a really good sense of humor.For example: Here is the hottest news in bathrooms: Glass doors for total transparency.That's right. Even though we may not have total transparency in banking and business. At least you can have total transparency in your home. We have already received compliments from neighbors on our 'European style bathrooms'.(Although, I have yet to visit a European home with transparent glass bathroom doors). Trust me, we did not intentionally order bathroom doors with transparent glass. Our custom-made Feather River doors (which we ordered through Home Depot) have 'bronze reflective glass'. So, when you are on the opposite side of the bathroom door, you look slightly bronzed but, you are still clearly visible from the other side.(This is when you'll be happy you stuck to your Dukan diet.) Seeing as we weren't on site when the bathroom doors were installed, I guess Home Depot, Feather River and our contractor who installed the doors thought we'd be okay with the idea of transparent bathroom doors. But, I'm not sure we'll be having many guests coming to visit. Or even coming over to dinner.If you do still want to visit, please remember to bring your own curtain.Chers amis, nous vous invitons venir diner quand vous voulez- mais apportez vos rideaux, SVP!Translation: Dear friends! Come for dinner when you wish - but be sure to bring your own curtains!

Paris Opera House on Strike

2011-09-22T00:21:00.000-07:00

What would the Phantom of the Opera have to say about a mechanics' strike at the Opera House? Last night (September 21st) was the first Gala event of the Fall 2011/12 season and a major Franco-American event. The ballet production Lifar Ratmansky will tour the US after Paris.

This is our second experience with a Garnier Opera House Gala tarnished by a strike.
Last spring's strike did not stop the entire show. This time the show did not go on.
Nevertheless patrons of the arts were invited to drink champagne, and enjoy the famed Garnier staircase. For the gala event, the staircase was enshrined with an array of white floral bouquets. And champagne flowed non-stop.

Wandering through the ornate halls in the evening felt somewhat eerie at times. I was eager to regain the remaining group of stalwart supporters resplendent in their sparkling gowns and tuxedos.

Perhaps, having viewed the film Melancholia the previous evening, tinged my perspective. I recalled the conversation between the two sisters. They are awaiting the collision of the two planets: Earth and Melancholia. One sister suggests going out on the terrace and toasting with a glass of wine - to which the other sister replies the thought of drinking a glass of wine on the terrace is revolting. Instead, she suggest to her nephew that he helps her create a magic tent where they will be safe.

Certainly, a canceled show at the Opera isn't the 'end of the world'.
But, it may well represent a world that has almost imperceptibly changed course.

Are we headed for a collision between those that love the arts and those determined to display their total control over all aspects of our lives? There are no magic tents and no safety nets. But better to build than destroy. In creation, we affirm our soul. Even if we create only to have all turn into dust.

To quote an acquaintance from Greece, "You cannot avoid politics. We eat, drink, and breathe politics every day of lives." Donc. Bonne sante.

Dukan Diet news

2011-04-24T07:29:00.000-07:00

Tailoring a Great French Diet to your Florida Lifestyle

For those of you who followed my Parislogue posts about the Dukan diet three years ago, you'll be delighted to know that the Dukan diet has finally hit the US of A! I just picked up a copy of the Crown Publishing edition and it's a beautiful translation of Dr. Dukan's inspiring call to arms.

And let's face it, losing weight - whether you want to lose one pound or fifty pounds is a battle against an army of junk food, constant attack of food advertisments, impulse food at cashier check-outs, and the daily stress that drives us to find refuge in our sense of taste and texture.

If you haven't yet read, The Dukan Diet, read it from cover to cover, and tell me you're not inspired to take up arms and do the good battle for your health and happiness.

I have done the diet - and can tell you that it does work. That isn't to say that there are pitfalls if you're doing this for the long haul (all of which are honestly mentioned in the book!).
But also know, that I am here for anybody who wants to take a stab at the program.

Something new about the US version of the Dukan diet:
Originally, exercise was not emphasized with the exception of taking stairways as opposed to elevators - but in places like south Florida where you're living on the 12th or 18th floor of a condo, taking the steps everyday would be a REAL work-out. Therefore, the US edition does emphasize 20, 30, or 60 minute walks as part of the program.

Some of the things not mentioned in the book are your psychological preparation before beginning the diet, so here are some additional suggestions which I've found to be useful:

Assess the influences good and bad around you before undertaking a diet.

Begin by clearing your kitchen and refrigerator of any food that remains as a temptation. If you share your kitchen with others that have no interest in dieting, then you need to set aside a portion of the kitchen/refrigerator that is yours and yours alone.

Do not panic when you are invited out to a restaurant. Accept the challenge. Servers will always try to load up your plate and you need to insist on what you want.
Protein happens to be the most expensive item on a restaurant menu so most restaurants will load up your plate with carbs to mask the miniscule piece of fish or meat. Tell them to bring out your steak, fish, chicken or veal with NO pasta, no potatoes, no rice and the chef will most likely be too embarrassed to skimp on your protein.

When it's time for an aperatif, club soda with a twist of lime is bubbly and refreshing.
Going out to eat is part of south Florida culture - you can enjoy it doubly when you know you are following the plan and working toward your goal.

So, if you've been hesitating to start the Dukan diet, wait no longer!

The Secret Life of Moles

2011-03-02T00:01:00.000-08:00

Although I promised you that the New Year's post would be my 'last' Parisgirl post, I decided that we couldn't leave France (and, particularly, Normandy) without a word about moles.

While in the US, spring is when a young man's fancy turns to major league baseball, Parisians will be opening up their country places in Normandy and discussing the ideal method for battling the 'mole problem'.

So, I thought this might be the ideal time to bring up the important discovery that Christopher has made about moles. It appears that very few scientists have taken the time to look at the secret lives of moles. For example, if you've ever visited Stonehenge, you might be surprised to know that moles have been building miniature stonehenges on your lawns. Moles choose not any old stones to mark their 'front doors' - those eyesores that deface your perfectly manicured 'gazon'.

All of this observation began on the day that Christopher decided to take a non-violent approach of co-existence with the moles. Rather than choose any of a variety of lethal expulsions (bombing, drowning, or maiming), he merely raked over taupe mounds (the word for mole in French is taupe) as soon as they appeared. After much raking, he observed the curious configuration of stones - most often including a flat stone or two at the entrance of each taupe mound.

After a number of years of raking over taupe mounds, Christopher finally caved into the more conventional approach. This was a sad day. Especially because no matter what technique one chooses, the moles do come back. They were here first.

If you want to make friends with your moles, rake over the mounds, plant with grass seed, fix yourself a gin-and-tonic and wait for the next taupe mound to appear. It's cheap entertainment, and meanwhile you may even break the code.

Happy New Year in Paris 2011

2011-01-03T09:54:00.000-08:00

Perhaps you have shared my dream of bringing in the New Year in Paris - the City of Lights. Of course, for Parisians, this dream is easier to realize - but the truth is, ringing in the New Year with friends is not entirely simple when it comes to logistics.

All I can say, if you plan on coming to Paris for New Years Eve - be sure to bring your walking shoes or book your driver well in advance.

This year, it was reported that 350,000 were milling around the Champs Elysees - but for some reason the annual Eiffel Tower fireworks didn't go off as planned. The Metro was supposed to be open somewhat later than normal for the revelers but at 2:30 am, certain Metro stops had already shut their gates.

So, what do you do at 3 am on a cold winter's night when your date is wearing high heels and your hotel is a mere 5 kilometers?

Be sure to know your date's shoe size in advance - and bring along a pair of jogging shoes and a warm pair of gloves.

Happy New Year from Paris!
PS. This is Parisgirl's last post. Yes, Mike I have begun the novel.

The Battle of Cedar Creek Re-Enactment, October 15-16, 2010

2010-10-30T08:15:00.000-07:00

Yeah, we were there. And if you have never observed a Civil War battle Re-enactment, WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? (Sorry for the uppercase hype) but for once, I need to be emphatic. We ended up at the Battle of Cedar Creek in Middletown, Virginia, all thanks to Lois at the Wayside Inn, an incredibly cool 18th century coach station and inn with its own share of stories (and a phantom or two, to be sure).

If you don't believe me, ask the folks that are participating in a seance in the slave kitchen tomorrow night? Whether you believe in the spirit world or not, they Wayside has a knack for dragging you back into the past. With creaky floors and finely carved period beds, a potpourri of antiques lovingly collected by the former proprietor, Wayside is simply oozing with history. In fact a Civil War soldier's letter home is framed right above the check-in counter.

But back to the battle. I am not a Civil War buff so I won't go into the details except to say that the men in blue and the men in gray were in abundance along with wives, tents, campfires, musical accompaniment and even a ball, the night before doing battle. Did I mention cavalry? Of course, there were some proud-stepping horses, totally non-plussed by the canon fire.

The weather complied dishing up a sun-drenched fall day for both Saturday and Sunday's re-enactments. Apparently the annual event occurs regardless of rain or sun.
On Saturday morning, we walked to the battlefields with a mass of boyscouts. From the center of Middletown, it's about a 3/4 mile to 1 mile walk to the Union's campsite. The Confederates were shooting from the opposite side of the valley near the Belle Grove plantation. We arrived about 15 minutes before the first skirmish scheduled for 11 am. Fortunately we crossed the valley along a path before the cannons began to smoke and before the cavalry made its first advance.

If you want to photograph this battle, I would suggest arriving early in the day to take photos of the campsites both on the Union and Confederate sides because once the battle begins, observers are requested to stand behind the 'battle lines'. I started shooting (photos, that is) from the hilltop of the Confederate side. You had a good view of the Union soldiers approach - and quite honestly, I think the Confederates had picked a good site to begin the battle. When you cross over from the Union soldiers' camp, you can't see much of anything over that hill and I would have not liked charging into a surprise attack.

Later in the day, at 3 pm, we observed a re-enactment (which according to the commentators actually began at 5 am with heavy fog) the best place to photograph this battle was from the Unionists encampment - just below the gun emplacements. That's where the front lines of the two camps made contact. (In other words, if you're approaching from Route 11, choose a spot in the designated observation area closest to Middletown and the Union soldiers' camp as opposed to the Confederate campsite.

Several of the re-enactors lodged at the Wayside Inn so we were able to discuss more of the details of the time period. As one of the participants mentioned, many of the people who do this year after year (one couple with whom we spoke had been attending for over ten years!) are truly dedicated to 'living the life - and bringing the event to life)

Parisgirl on the 'American Tour'

2010-10-14T14:39:00.000-07:00

Even Parisgirls need a vacation, but this is ridiculous. I've just realized that this 'endless vacation' has been going on since June, so for those tried and true readers - an apology is long overdue. Parisgirl and company is currently on the 'Great American Tour' and we have kicked off the excursion with 117 Degrees Farenheit temperatures in Los Angeles (a record!).

We have recently discovered (in Johnstown, Pennsylvania of what consists a 'gob'.
And very soon, we will be trampling across Civil War battlefields. TO BE CONTINUED

Paris Opera: Rossini at the Garnier Gala

2010-06-30T23:25:00.000-07:00

There's a reason why going to an Garnier Opera gala in June doesn't make sense - even if it is Rossini's 'La Donna del Lago' which NY Times writer George Loomis describes as "rare as it is irresistible."

This is my fourth gala event: Ballet Russes at Garnier last December, La Somnambule at Bastille, and last week, La Donna del Lago at Garnier.

It's equally a 'rare and irresistible' occasion to attend ANY opera at Garnier because the majority of operas these days are performed at Bastille. However, here are some things that you won't read about in the NY Times Review!

First, a little nit-picking: In the libretto, King James V is referred to as Uberto, not Giacomo!

And according to Wikipedia, this June 2010 is the first performance of La Dame del Lago at Garnier! (I am always suspicious of 'first' anything) so I'd like confirmation on that . . . thanks Rochester Girl!

You must really LOVE opera to consider Garnier in June. In the middle of a heat wave, the third level loge turns into a veritable sauna. I can't imagine how the singers fared in Franca Squarciapino's voluminous and metallic garb.

One might rename this gala event June Madness. In sympathy with the transport strike protesting potential changes in retirement laws, the set crew decided to go on strike. Judging by the comments re Ezio Frigerio's stage sets, Garnier's bare stage and the painted landscape backdrop may have been an improvement.

Every opera has its hero - and in this case, Juan Diego Florez's performance was heroic considering that he agreed to perform in spite of being unwell. The announcement was made at the start of the opera.

It was also ironic that an opera that emphasized love of one's nation should be tainted by a strike. (Of course, hopefully strikes are staged because one loves one's nation and wants to make it a better nation!)

If you're not a seasoned opera buff (which is definitely my case), is it really worth fidgeting the second half of La Donna del Lago for a few truly exceptional moments? I was curious to hear Joyce DiDonato, all the way from Kansas, Colin Lee, from South Africa and Juan Diego Florez from Peru performing as the 'three corners of the world' united in one opera. That, in itself is exciting. Even more exciting is to learn that one gala member flew all the way from Japan to hear Florez. This Florez fan has been following him round the world.

For me though, the real hero wasn't on stage. He happened to be one of our tablemates at the Gala 'souper'. This was the kind of person who would see a homeless person on the street, and, rather than walk by him, he'd do his best to find him a place to stay. Sadly, at the end of the evening he mentioned that he suffered from an illness that would very likely render him crippled in a few years. His attitude was optimistic: see as much of the world as he could in the time that he was allotted.

If opera serves any purpose, it underlines the tragedy in our lives. When Dad spent his last four years in a veteran's hospital after a stroke, we would often bring in opera DVDs. Only opera (in my opinion) can translate human suffering - and give comfort. So, when you're bored or squirming when you listen to opera, it may mean that you should attend opera at the air-conditioned Bastille - or maybe you just haven't suffered much in life.

P.S. (The photo of the 'Opera Gala Souper' was actually taken last December. This year, I didn't take my camera but the Souper was held in the Foyer. You won't find a better stage set anywhere than the building itself and the foyer is the 'piece de resistance')

Scandal in Van Gogh's Wheat fields

2010-06-25T01:53:00.000-07:00

It couldn't be a better time to visit Vincent Van Gogh's final resting place in Auvers sur Oise: Blazing sun and blue skies, the kind of day which the driven painter would have clung to like a glowing talisman.

We are so lucky to have a guide who can claim this pastoral setting as his own childhood stomping grounds - but things change - even if people's attitudes don't.

Van Gogh had it right when he said that people are more important than things - even if those things happen to be paintings - or sculpture. The beauty (or horror) of art is the chemical reaction it creates in those of us who stumble upon it. One might even go so far as to say that no work of art really is complete until the viewer and the work have made a connection.

Our friend and 'trusty guide' led us along the dirt path to the fields where Van Gogh painted his famous scene of blackbirds. At the crossroads, we came upon this bizarre sailing craft. The craft, piloted by a headless sailor carries an overexposed woman (who has been modestly draped with the craft's flag - so as not to shock more sensitive souls).

From behind us came outcries of 'Scandalous!!!'. Two women and a man approached with their hunting dog leading the chase.
"I had to come up here to see this for myself," said one outraged women.
The two women approached gingerly. The dog barked at the immobile ship with the headless oarsman.

"Look, someone has taken the flag to cover the woman!" says the second woman.
They retreat from the accident scene. Then the man approaches after the two women have walked onward. He ever so gently lifts the blue sheet, and casts a glance upon the female occupant of the sailing ship. A dead calm, in an ocean of a wheat.

I think Van Gogh would have understood.

Meanwhile, we stop to pay respects at Vincent and his brother Theo's gravesites and we meet a lovely group of visitors from South Korea - and, of course, South Korea is the #1 Country in the world - this is what I shout to them. Yes, that's true!!! Where else would you find so many beautiful smiling faces? Oh, Vincent, if only you were here!

Arabian Days in Paris

2010-06-09T03:33:00.000-07:00

If ever there were a cure for window washing blues, the recent Orient-Hermes exhibit at the Institute of the Arab World and Culture would be the perfect antidote.

Tunisian-born Leila Menchari captures her childhood and travel memories in splendiforous window dressings. No wonder that Hermes chose her as their Faubourg-St. Honore window dresser for a number of years.

I have to confess that I've been lazy about getting to the Institute of the Arab World and Culture - but finally,thanks to the prodding of a charming esthetician of Sicilian/Tunisian heritage, our weekend visitors were treated to an exceptional exhibit.

Sadly, the institute itself was closed for renovation. But, good chance was with us because the 9th floor restaurant and stupendous view of Paris was most definitely open for visitors (at no charge - for the view). A ride up the elevators allowed us to marvel at architect Jean Nouvel's unique geometric 'light prisms' which double as decor and light filters opening and closing like camera apertures according to the intensity of sunlight.

I've yet to meet a Nouvel building in Paris that I don't love. And the Institute du Monde Arabe is no exception. Of course, how lucky that it should also enjoy one of the best vantage points to appreciate two other fine examples of architecture - Notre Dame's flying buttresses and the far-off domes of Sacre Coeur.

What I admire about Paris is the ability of the city to embrace creative brilliance in all its facets - it is a window on the the world.

During our visit of the Orient-Hermes show, we met a couturier from Fez who regaled us with her handstitched dreamy dresses - perfect for a gala! Helas! The prices were just out of reach for a summer budget in Paris, but maybe a trip to Fez is in our future?

One can dream - and sometimes dreams come true.

The Zen of Washing Windows in Paris

2010-06-05T09:42:00.000-07:00

I've tried time and again to trash the myth of 'romantic Paris'. No one ever seems to believe that day-to-day life in Paris can be just as boring as anywhere else in the world so I'm determined to spend the next few days doing the most boring things possible - just to prove Paris is simply not romantic - and anyhow - the windows could really use a good cleaning.

The problem is - that, as soon as I decided to undertake this project - I realized that washing French windows is not a project to be undertaken with disdain. There are some who might even consider it to be heroic.

The typical 'pierre de taille' high-ceilinged apartment has equally high windows that require a sturdy, four-step ladder to reach the highest panes. Pity the debutante window washer who thinks that a bottle of blue tinted so-called 'window washing fluid' is going to be of any use with double-glazed windows encrusted with at least ten years of Paris pollution and pigeon shit.

(I told you Paris isn't romantic!)

After half an hour of smearing the blue stuff around in endless circles (this has to be the perfect example of samsara), I finally decided to use a more common sense approach> I filled up a bucket of hot water with a small dose of dish-washing liquid (or my French guests would have suggested white vinegar), and then wiped down the huge panes in broad strokes.

You've heard of weekend warriors who pay big time for their zeal, but wannabe window washers take the cake when it comes to payback time. Example: Says husband: "Why are you walking bent over that way?"
Answer: "Don't ask."
The husband can't tease too much. He has only a few days earlier fallen off of one of those handy, dandy cane chairs that are so useful for museum goers. Fortunately he tumbled onto the grass in the Bois de Boulogne, not far from the Shakespeare Garden. Are we getting more romantic yet?

The best way to finish off the windows to totally clear, transparency demands the use of rolled up newspapers. Is this the only way that one can find true clarity in life? By rolling up a coherent, meaningful essay into a messy jumble of carbon, creating friction with glass and liquid cleaning fluid?

Everyone that I've ever spoken to swears that newspaper print is by far and away the best way to get clean mirrors and windows.

The sun is shining and there is not a single cloud in the skies above Paris on this June day. I'm standing on the window ledge/balcony, one floor above the street and foot traffic. My body appears to be strangely out of place in this suspended state which suddenly feels pretty close to those outer body experiences people talk about when you've been meditating for a really long time. Well, okay, I'm not really outside my body, but my body's outside the window, and that's already far out.

A tour bus goes by and I wonder if the tourists are watching the woman washing windows and suddenly, my body has become part of the Parisian landscape and it no longer belongs to me but to Paris.

Is this what life is all about?

What We Do on the First Day in Paris

2010-05-23T14:44:00.000-07:00

After having found the a local bar/brasserie that accepts jet-lagged clients with the same courtesy as locals (Le Petit Sommelier), we have one ritual that works best in good weather - that's a walk from Montparnasse to the Luxembourg Gardens. It's an easy walk for jet-lagged wobbly feet - so we can do it - preferably past Blvd Raspail under the nodding approval of Rodin's Balzac. We cross over to Rue Vavin and dodge mothers piloting baby strollers with the smoothness of Formula 1 - drivers.

On a sunny day in late May, it's not the flowers that draw us to this park of poets, but several favorite landmarks.

The fountains: - Although the Medici fountain (1630) is the oldest and the biggest crowd-pleaser, I have to admit that I'm hooked on the Fontaine de l'Observatoire or the 'Carpeaux' fountain. First off, we want to know whether the fountain is actually on - and today, we're fortunate. The Fremiat-sculpted stallions are getting properly splashed.

Sculptor Carpeaux takes credit for the winsome nudes representing the 'Four Parts of the World'. At the time the work was considered scandalous - not of course because of the nudity, but clearly looking at the expressions of these lovely 'women of four worlds', they were just having too much fun holding up the globe.

Technically speaking, the Carpeaux fountain isn't in the Luxembourg Garden. It's in the annex gardens known as the Marco Polo Gardens which lead to Rue de L'Observatoire and Boulevard Montparnasse.

Another monument which always deserves a pause is located near the gardens at the Montparnasse and Observatoire intersection. This is the statue of Marshall Michel Ney (sculpted by Rude). It's incredible to think that a statue stands in Paris for a marshall who was shot for treason. Even if one doesn't know half the story, Rude's portrayal of a marshall whose last command to his executors: "Be sure and shoot straight in the heart!" - shows that this was a guy with guts.

For visitors from the Carolinas - there are some rumors - or myths that Ney wasn't actually shot - that his execution was staged and he ended up in North or South Carolina.

Walking around the gardens can be a veritable history lesson if one takes the time to look carefully at each statue. Likewise plenty of drama had to unfold within the Luxembourg palace constructed for Marie de Medici, Henry IV's queen and mother to Louis XIII. At one point the queen's favorite painter Rubens was thought to be a spy.

Of course, each day in these gardens, new plots are certainly hatched for great fiction and, maybe even, poetry, or simply a daydream.

First Day Back in Paris

2010-05-20T14:25:00.000-07:00

Recently a stateside friend asked, what's the first thing you do when you get back to Paris?
Recover from jet-lag - or try.

But I know what he was really asking me is - 'what's the first thing you do to celebrate your return to Paris? '
Because, and I'm sure this is true for many return visitors to France, there must be rituals.

And there are rituals, but I tend to downplay them. Rituals can be mistaken for habits and habits get boring - fast.

Breaking Fast.

If you're flying in from the US to Paris, you'll normally arrive in the morning. That sorry excuse for a roll and a plastic container of yogurt you received in flight don't measure up to breakfast, and, after waiting for the Air France Le Car shuttle bus from CDG to Montparnasse during morning rush hour traffic, you'll be lucky to get into Paris before eleven am.

We used to have breakfast at a cafe/brasserie called 'L'Ocean' across from the train station. Now that 'L'Ocean' has closed its doors, we've shifted over to another local bar/tabac which has recently metamorphosed from a tabac into a non-stop brasserie called 'Le Petit Sommelier'. The lunches might be two or three euros cheaper at restaurant chains (like Indiana) or the pizza joints - but where else would you get freshly mashed potatoes and a huge plate of roast chicken for thirteen Euros?

With jet lag, I'm never really quite sure whether I'm hungry, thirsty or just exhausted. So, it's important to find just the right place where we can sit and stare at the passing scene with glazed eyes and not seem out of place. We've always had this hopelessly idealistic idea that we'd find the perfect little brasserie, preferably in the same building as our apartment where we might return after an extended absence - and the waiter - or bartender might remember us. (This might have worked in the fifties or sixties, but not in the new millenium!) After ten years, we haven't 'exactly' found that certain neighborhood bar/brasserie to call 'home'.

So, if there's a return ritual, it would be 'looking for a brasserie to call home'. That's not to say we don't know a few of the waiters in the neighborhood as well as owners of the one of the local Chinese restaurants on Gaite. The Liberte at Edgar Quinet is a little to far flung to be called our 'local bar' and the Chinese restaurant doesn't serve breakfast, so I'm optimistic about Le Petit Sommelier although right now, my jet-lagged brain is playing tricks with the name - is it really "Le Petit Sommelier, or is it "Le Petit Sommeil"?

Le Petit Sommelier
Avenue du Maine
Metro: Gaite
Across from Gare Montparnasse
Plat du jour: 13.50 Euros
Glass of House Wine 4.50 Euros

Westward Bound

2010-04-08T12:14:00.000-07:00

It's on the road again and this time, without a laptop. So, until we meet again!

Beware of the Eyes of April

2010-04-07T08:17:00.000-07:00

For those of you who may not know it, May is the ideal month to look after your eyes. Which is why I'm glad to hear that R-Girl is getting eye issues finalized in mid-May. My eye guy here in Paris is very cool. He hasn't pushed laser surgery by any stretch, (except that he says it's 'miraculous') but Paris being a style-conscious capital, it has been a happy option for many. Then, on the other hand, there are so many great style glasses to choose from, wearing glasses isn't as much of a stigma as it used to be.
http://www.lesplusbelleslunettesdumonde.com/?gclid=CPTJ28n29KACFYUx3god0CUztw

If you do wear glasses, France is a great place to shop for a new pair of frames. However, buying prescription lenses are outrageously expensive. Strangely enough, the cost of a pair of lense varies from departement to departement. For example, I've been told that glass lenses cost more money in Eure Departement than in Calvados.

Here is something that I just learned about Xalatan, the eye drops I'm taking currently: Aside from lowering eye pressure, they also make your eyelashes grow.

French Makeover: A Spring Haircut

2010-04-02T07:45:00.000-07:00

Before:

You said you wanted to see the new haircut, but first I need to say a word about haircuts in France. Women don't rely on long hair in this country to be attractive. If anything, a good haircut, makes a much better impression than the 'Tressy Doll' effect. Do you remember the 'Tressy Dolls'? You'd tug at their ponytails and unending volumes of hair would spit out of the top of Tressy's head. Pretty ghastly, right?

Every now and then, there's nothing quite as exhilarating as saying "Chop it all off!" Probably much the way the 'Queen of Hearts' in Alice in Wonderland commanded 'Off With their Heads!"

So in the spring holiday spirit, I shed the old 'do' and for the first time (in a long time) refrained from saying 'Leave enough to pull my hair back into a ponytail.'
Ponytails are great for cheerleaders.

Bastille Opera Gala Conversations: Mahler

2010-03-15T00:54:00.000-07:00

I promised my table neighbor at the Gala 'souper' that I would listen to Mahler. Although he suggested I might begin by listening to his symphonies, the CD, I happened upon in our stack of CDs was Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau singing Mahler's song cyles Gesellen, Kindertotenleider, Ruckertleider.

It comes as no surprise that Bellini's 'Somnambule' brought to mind Mahler - particularly because the word 'elegiac' had been mentioned. But, once I've plunged into Mahler's world, Bellini evaporates like a soap bubble.

How appropriate that today happens to be the first real day of spring, starting with golden sunshine and a hint of humid remains: winter decay lifting in the early morning mist. And so, begins the Kindertotenlieder:

(after poems by Friedrich Ruckert)
"And now the sun will rise as bright
as if no ill luck had befallen in the night.
The ill luck befell me alone
And the sun shines all around
You must not enclose the night within you:
you must drown it in eternal light
A little lamp went out in my tent.
Hail to the gladdening light of the world!
Now I understand why such dark flames
were strewn on me when you looked at me
O eyes! O eyes!
As if in one look
you would compress your whole force
I did not know then (for mists surrounded me,
woven by fate to dazzle me).
that the beam was already turning towards home,
there, whence all beams spring
You wanted to tell me with your rays:
We long to stay near you
but fate will not let us.
Look at us now, for soon we shall be far away.
These that are eyes today,
in nights to come will be stars."

In his essay, Michael Kennedy compares Mahler's song cycle to the Winterreisen, except, in this case, the disconsolate wanderer begins his journey in the spring. In real life, Mahler composed the song cyle in 1883-1885. Certainly, rejected love and the recent loss of two brothers (followed soon afterward by the death of his 4-year-old daughter) are some of the tragedies that influenced the haunting melodies of Mahler's song cycle.

Kennedy notes that the song cycles are often sung by mezzo sopranos but, he adds:
"there can be little doubt that the texts imply a male voice. Is is a measure of the artistry of Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau that, as one listens, one cannot imagine any voice but a baritone's in that music."

Thanks, cher Ami Voisin du Gala, for mentioning Mahler!

La Somnambule at Bastille, Jan 2010

2010-02-25T01:49:00.000-08:00

If you are, like me, a newcomer to opera, you'll want to be sure to do some homework before going to the opera. It's easy to do that on the internet by reading the synopsis of the
La Somnambule which was composed by Vincenzo Bellini in 1831. It is one of three operas for which Bellini is famous: Norma (considered to be his best) and the Puritan.

Originally Bellini had been working on an opera based on Victor Hugo's 'Hernani' but because of scandals connected with 'Hernani', he ended up opting for an opera sure to be a crowd-pleaser without ruffling any feathers. The story is based on a girl who has a sleepwaking disorder in a country village.

Of course, the reason for the full house at Opera Bastille is Nathalie Dessay. The opera allows her to 'strut her stuff' in a few famous arias that demand a singer's very best:

Come per me sereno"
"Ah! non credea mirarti"

You can compare Dessay's interpretation of Ah! non credea mirarti with that of author opera singer greats such as Maria Callas, or Montserrat Caballe.

Which leaves the question - why bother going to the opera when you can listen to the music in your own home -or watch a video? Is it just to say that you've listened to one of the 'great' opera singers in person, or is there part of the opera going experience that sets it apart for reproduced technology?

In this case, I would have to say that you have to experience opera in both ways - for opera is not only about performers but also about spectators. When an audience really loves a singer - there is that communal sigh. This is what sets apart the opera-going experience from reproductions. And this is probably why opera singers would never give up having a stage and live audience.

That being said, I do have some personal criticisms regarding the performance we attended - and that is merely a question of set and costume design. Before buying tickets for a performance - you may want to check out the setting and costume design on the Opera de Paris website. Although last Fall's Barbier de Seville had a phenomenal set, it is common now to dress performers in clothing from totally different time periods. For example, last Fall's performance of La Boheme was performed in 1940 era costumes.

In this case, La Somnambule 's director and set designer Marco Arturo Marelli chose a voluminous art-Deco style 'hotel resort' design one might imagine in a Swiss 'village' in the late 20s or early 1930s whereas the costumes (especially Lisa, the innkeeper's 'power suit' looked more like vintage 1980s). Of course, set design and costumes are a very subjective issue. I would have preferred to have seen a design which remains faithful to the era. Isn't Amina supposed to sing her famous aria as she balances her way across the trestle bridge of a water mill? In this case, she is only viewed from the inside of the auberge/sanitarium. (Le Monde's review mentions the irony of Rodolpho returning to this quaint village happy to see the familiar scenes of the auberge and the old mill (yet he is confronted with art deco bar stools!).

Natalie Dessay is certainly capable of carrying an opera - but she can't carry the stage set on her back as well. Musically speaking she was in excellent company for La Somnambule with Javier Camarena as Elvino, Marie Adeline Henry as Lisa, Michele Perusi as Comte Rodolfo. It was a memorable evening, especially when Dessay appeared for her last solo in a drop-dead red dress that almost made up for the set and costume design blunders (of course all these comments are purely subjective!).

P.S. According to one review, Dessay would have preferred performing La Somanmbule at the Garnier Opera House (thus the closing aria with the backdrop of the traditional Opera House red curtain?). NY Times reviewer Loomis takes a swipe at the her last aria as not being quite up to the 'hauteur' of a diva (but the audience didn't appear to agree - she had a resounding aplause). In other reviews, there were some cryptic comments about the last aria in the red dress. Maybe some of you more informed opera goers can fill me in?

Best Way to Enjoy Paris's Opera House: Go Gala!

2010-02-23T02:56:00.000-08:00

Way back when, I wrote in Parislogue that there's no place to dress up in Paris, not even the hallowed Paris Opera house where jeans sidle up alongside sequins. Of course, there will always be those that snivel at this 'bourgeois' rite: how many times have couples repeated the cliches?
Man: Do I have to wear a tie? Woman: I don't have a pair of shoes to match this outfit.

But for those who still maintain their adamant anti-embellishment attitude, might I remind you that even Nature imposes its 'dressing up' dictum for males of certain bird species. When you think that certain bird species spend much of their waking hours decorating nests to attract just the right female, putting on a bowtie for one night doesn't seem like such an imposition after all.

And when the one night happens to be a night at Paris's Opera Houses, either the 19th century bijou, Garnier, or Mitterand's 20th century monolith at Bastille, you might as well just go with the flow, guys. (I think there might even be a few among you who actually like wearing a tux and bowtie. And no matter how handsome you are, you always look even better in black and white!).

This is all a long response my claim that there was 'no place to dress up and 'glow' in Paris', the answer is the Opera Gala which takes place at least four times throughout the year thanks to the organisation Friends of the National Opera of Paris (AROP).

You can book tickets to a Gala performance over the internet with the option of participating in the 'Souper' or cold supper after the opera. If you do decide to dine after the opera, the meal is served right in the halls of the opera house. We had the good fortune to be placed at a table where most of the people were English-speakers (and one of the table guests had actually lived in Rochester for several years). Needless to say you don't go to the 'souper' for the quality of the food (but the wine is quite acceptable!). What you hope for (and of course, there's no guarantee, is to have delightful conversation). In this case, I was not at all disappointed - a gentleman from Columbia to my left and a Bordelais to the right - both true opera fans. The Bordelais suggested I should become more familiar with Mahler (which I will).

If you choose not to opt for the 'souper' a complimentary champagne is served during the intermission with scrumptious hors d'oeuvres (even better than the meal, in my opinion).
Although, formal-wear is not 'de rigueur', men should at least wear a jacket and tie, although most men going to the 'souper' do wear a tux, and women wear either long gowns or cocktail dresses.

If you would like to know more about the opera that we heard, La Somnambule with Natalie Dessay, that will be in another post!

First Class on Thalys: Is it Worth It?

2010-02-08T02:06:00.000-08:00

We love traveling by train in Europe, especially in France, but is it really worth going first class? For the past twenty years, we may have taken a first class train in Europe three or four times at most. This past weekend, we tried the Thalys first class train only because dinner was included in the price. The dinner was served promptly. It was actually a cold supper featuring cold fish and an assortment of fresh vegetables - also cold and fresh fruit for dessert. An excellent meal for the health conscious soul. However, pity the person who turns down the coffee or tea after dinner because, surprisingly the bar car was dismantled BEFORE we reached our destination at 9 pm.

Any of you who may be former Amtrak clients (particularly the lines running from the Big Apple) would find it hard to believe that a bar car might close up service after the dinner hour. In fact, the Amtrak bar car (in my humble opinion) was the saving grace for a train service that left much to be desired.

But all I can say to railway enthusiasts who plan on using Thalys, bring your own bottle of water - because once the bar service closes its window, there's not even a drop of water to be found.

Another 'advantage' of traveling first-class is being able to have a taxi called in advance by the train manager (however that only applies to the final city destination!) - a minor detail that might catch you by surprise.

The seats are slightly larger in first-class and they're slightly more adjustable, but not noticeably more comfortable. Other than that, second class and first class arrive in the station at approximately the same time.

If you're traveling second class on the Thalys line, bring your bottle of water - and also your breakfast. We waited in line for half an hour for two croissants. That has to be some sort of world record. While waiting in line I remembered way back when on the Spanish trains (in the seventies) everyone shared food and cigarettes in second class. There was no 'bar car'.

Still, there's no better way to travel than by train. Train fan forever!

Champs Elysees Christmas '09 New Years 2010

2010-01-19T07:07:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year 2010!

Weather Report and Abbe Michel in Thiberville

2010-01-08T12:57:00.000-08:00

It's hard to believe but Normandy is still having a very White christmas. The Christmas creche stays up in Thiberville until February 2nd so we can still pretend it's Christmas. The temperature tonight is negative 6 degrees celius and dropping. We drove in from Paris this afternoon - fortunately under sunny skies - but even Paris is freezing.

That didn't stop some SERIOUS shoppers from being out in the Boulevard St. Germain district (yours truly included) except that I was there to buy a book at the Village Voice bookstore - the first part of the Stieg Larsson trilogy "The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo".

But we had to get back to Normandy soon because I was already having dreams about the cows - that is one cow - or one bull that got out of the pen and was creating havoc. Thank goodness that our dear friend Freud is long gone. He would have a heyday with my dreams.

In the meantime, what transpires in Thiberville is much more interesting. Our closest major burg, Thiberville has been in the news this past week,especially since last Sunday (Ephiphany Sunday). The bishop came to town to celebrate Mass and the Mass was boycotted.

Normally 'manifestations' in France are associated with left-wing labor unions, but this wasn't the case in Thiberville. The parishioners of Thiberville are dismayed that their parish priest, Father Michel, is being transferred after 23 years of service in the community. When the Bishop of this department (Eure) arrived to say Mass, after 10 minutes, the church-goers stood up and left. Wow!

I'm what's called a 'lapsed Catholic'. And having grown up in a town where the town parish had its own share of 'controversy' none of this comes as great surprise. Catholic clergy of course are human beings with all their foibles. But, the response of the community is not just about the anger and outrage of uprooting a priest who is obviously an essential part of that community - but anger and outrage over a pervasive evisceration of ALL community rapport.

The local bank has the same policy as the church - keep transferring people so that no one can ever get 'attached'. Even though we are newcomers to the part of Normandy (only 20 years now), we have memories - attending a Mass conducted in Latin with friends Michel, Jeanne, Huguette and Jean Pierre, attending the marriage of our mayor's daughter Valerie and her husband Eric, and most recently watching the Palm Sunday procession in the streets of Thiberville. These are the kind of traditions that hold a community together. Clearly, the world no longer wants us to be connected to our neighbors. The banks don't want you to have a 'relationship' with your local banker. And apparently the church also views that keeping priests in one parish for too long is 'unhealthy'.

I guess the reason Thiberville's parish priest's story interests me is the same reason our local elected officials are concerned - what is the future of small town communities - if the fabric that holds these towns together is undone - no more local businesses, no more churches, no more family farms, no more regional products.

Of course, this is just one part of the story. There's always another side, but that will be for another post!

More Snow in Normandy!

2010-01-02T02:18:00.000-08:00

Soon we will be joining the great migration of cars returning to Paris. You'd think we'd learn the lesson after being stuck in three hour traffic jams between Paris and Versailles. In the meantime, being stuck in a traffic jam is a great time to take photos.

New Year's Eve Dinner in Normandy

2010-01-02T02:04:00.000-08:00

This was Lydie's New Year's Eve quail dish! It's not every day you get to try quail - and this may be the first time we've had a New Year's Eve meal prepared at home. When it comes to New Years and Christmas, this is when French chefs really outdo themselves.

Here's what we ate:
An assortment of 'verrines' including gazpacho and guacamole (Francoise is the queen of verrines!)
Foie gras de canard with Coteaux de Layon
Quail with white grapes marinated in cognac
Beaune Burgundy
Celery puree
Sauteed potatoes
Macaroons and sorbet
Mom's refrigerator cookies

And Champagne - but, of course!

Thank you to our charming hosts, Francoise and Jean-Pierre for welcoming us into their home!!

New Years Day in Normandy

2010-01-02T01:22:00.000-08:00

Actually, the day after. It's snowing and I'm listening to the soundtrack to Sideways for the umpteenth million time. Is there any better way to start the new year? The score framed plenty of summer barbecues in Normandy this past year and never ceases to delight me.

Sideways actually appears on occasion in Paris, but we missed the last screening at a Latin quarter cinema. If you haven't seen the film yet, don't miss it. I remember seeing it for the first time at the Little theater in Rochester. Even though it was reviewed as a comedy, the opening scenes didn't show any promise of comedy - and how could you EVER sympathize with a guy who steals money from his Mum? It just goes to show that our capacity for human compassion is much more elastic than one might imagine.

What would you like to know about Paris?

2009-12-18T01:30:00.000-08:00

Dear Beloved Reader: I have to apologize for being so lazy - the stories have been piling up and not getting into print, so now it's your turn to tell me about what you'd like to read first:

Here are some topics:
The Gala at the Garnier Opera House: Ballet Russes
Jazz near the Champs Elysees
A good Chinese restaurant in the 13th
Can bicycles turn right on red?
The Isadora Duncan exhibit at Musee Bourdelle
The Dutch Masters exhibit at the Musee Pinotheque
and beyond Paris:
Festival of Lights in Lyon

Snow in Paris

2009-12-18T01:08:00.000-08:00

Yes, it does snow in Paris. There's no better time to be here - if you're a photographer, but don't even think about getting in or out of town - especially in a taxi. My heart really went out to whomever hired the cab that was just in front of us, stuck in traffic on the 'periphe'.

Normally it takes just under two hours to drive out to Normandy. Yesterday (Thursday, Dec 17th, it took us three hours to drive from Montparnasse to Vaucresson (which is almost at Versailles). If you can make it to Versailles, you're home free. From that point on, it was smooth sailing and bright sunshine as soon as we passed from Ile de France into Normandy - am I starting to sound 'chauvin'when it comes to La Belle Normandie?

The photo here was taken actually almost a year ago when it also snowed in Paris during the month of February (still in 2009). This was supposed to be my Christmas card this year, but procrastination won out. Merry Christmas to my beloved blogreader!

Trivia Question for the Day

2009-12-16T05:45:00.000-08:00

Thinking about Sara Jeannette Duncan and the Honorable Sir Rash Behary Ghose.
Just what was "The Law of Mortgages in British India" all about?

And, does anyone have a copy of Sara Jeannette Duncan's books on Calcutta? Oh, and by the way, if you want to know where to listen to a Finnish female jazz saxophonist in Paris, I can tell you!

French Dinner Conversations

2009-12-01T10:37:00.000-08:00

Receiving a dinner invitation in France is a wonderful thing. I may not remember EVERY dinner - but many of them -- going back to the 1970s remain vibrant partly for all the great food served - but primarily for the flow of conversation.

And as Christopher noted this past weekend, people love to talk here - so what do you do when your command of the French language is less than perfect? Take the roller coaster approach and enjoy the ride.

What I love about conversing in French is that - although conversations can be just as superficial - the boundaries appear to be wider. All the etiquette books tell you to avoid discussing religion, sex and politics, but in France, the only really taboo subject is money. (Probably a close second is work).

Be prepared to talk about your president. (and regardless of your politics, don't embarrass yourself by tearing him/or her to shreds). I'm always amazed at how people can discuss politics at great length here - and often - you may never really know how people actually would vote.

And I can guarantee you that you are bound to feel sheepish about how little you really know about your own country. A case in point: Which states border Lake Superior? Usually after a dinner out, I spend the next day googling on subjects ranging from the War of 1812 to the origins of May Day in Chicago.

Sometimes a simple question can create plenty of discussion.
Example: What's the difference between an onion and a shallot?

Although it may be more difficult to speak in French than in English (with plenty of pitfalls and gaffes for sure), sometimes I feel freer to speak my heart in a second language. And thanks to that, the words are getting easier to find - even in English.

Thanksgiving Day in France

2009-11-27T02:30:00.000-08:00

Although I 've never born children, there has to be at least one similarity between cooking a Thanksgiving Dinner and giving birth - the reflex reaction - the moment the last dishes have been washed or the day after delivery - whichever you please - when you say, "Never again!" And then, the next year, it's as if you're suffering from temporary amnesia and you repeat the whole process. Whether it's end-of-the year holidays or a new pregnancy, it's this kind of memory lapse that keeps the human race going.

So, once more, I've cooked Thanksgiving Dinner, but this year has been momentous. Only twice have I done so in France. The first time was in the fall of 1979 in Paris (shared with Angelique from Cambodia, and Nabbe, Mory & Kadiatou from Guinea- and this time in Normandy with neighbors from England, France and Mauritius.

The pleasure of preparing this meal is knowing that it will be the first time any of our guests have had a traditional Thanksgiving meal. Happily, this is one of the few holidays untarnished by outright commercialism (or nationalism). The original intention of the holiday was quite simply to acknowledge one's gratitude for a bountiful harvest. (Thanks, Thomas Jefferson for confirming the separation of church and state regarding this holiday!)

Whether you believe in God or not, recognizing all the goodness in one's life seems to be an excellent antidote to all the bad news that comes our way.

Thanksgiving Day can simply be another excuse to 'pig out' or stay in bed a few hours later, but also, a wonderful occasion to share with friends around the world.

As for the meal, depending on where you decide to prepare the 'fixins' this is a challenge. Here are some of the ingredients you may have trouble finding in France (especially if you're outside of Paris):
Turkey. Whole turkeys are usually only available starting in December. Although some families prepare whole turkeys for Christmas Day, it isn't as common a dish. I found a frozen whole turkey (with no innards included) at Thiriet, a frozen foods specialty store.

Cranberries (also called 'canberge' but more commonly called 'cranberries') Cranberries aren't cultivated in France - and until the past five to seven years, you couldn't find cranberry products of any sort except in healthfood stores. Nowadays, some large grocery stores sell Oceanspray Cranberry juice and dried cranberries, but fresh cranberries are still uncommon.

Sweet potatoes or 'patates douces' are availabe in produce sections of large grocery stores such as LeClerc or at some outdoor markets.

Canned pumpkin isn't available - outside of American products grocery stores (such as Thanksgiving in Paris). Instead I tried baking a parsnip pie. The word for 'parsnip' in French is 'panais'.

Hard to find spices:
Allspice
Mace
Ground cloves
These, unfortunately are also the essential ingredients for a pumpkin or parsnip pie.
Turkey dressing:
Bread cubes a la Pepperidge Farm variety- quite simply, you make your own.

Lard. A good pie crust, as my neighbors will confirm, needs lard. If you're making a French tart, the crust is 100 % butter, and two of the best tart crusts I've tasted are Jeanne's and Danie's mother's, but thanks to Ivy and Martyn, we have enough lard to make a pie crust. The results are astoundingly good - but I credit that to Ivy's magic touch. She has the just the right technique of blending flour, lard and butter lifting the batter with her fingers like Vladimir Horowitz playing Mozart.

Pecan Pie.
You can't get anymore American than pecan pie. And you can find pecans here, but in small packets. But another key ingredient - corn syrup - is also nowhere to be found.
Corn syrup can be replaced by dark honey or golden syrup - however both of these substitutes create a different consistency.

Not being an organized person, it takes me a long time to put this meal in action - Thanksgiving Eve, I finally turned out the kitchen lights at 3 am and started up again at 9 am on Thanksgiving Day. But unlike a similar meal in the US which can be devoured within an hour (or less!) here, in Europe, we can linger over cocktails (and make turkey gravy at the same time!), add a delicious crusted port to the end of the meal, and if you're really a gourmand, finish off with a cheese plate - none of us got that far.

Which means we'll have to extend the Thanksgiving feast for a second day - which is kind of a Basque tradition of returning for the leftovers. I like this tradition. For those of you who have two days off for Thanksgiving, rather than going shopping on Black Friday, why not just invite your friends and family back for a second day of thanks?

This morning, I'm still giving thanks for Martine, Ivy and Chris who are not shy about washing dishes, Martyn who mashed the potatoes and brought over the lard, Martyn again, who reminded me to take out the bread - and the turkey at the right time, Ivy who boiled and peeled the chestnuts (from her trees), and Peter who provided the cigars (and did the Pilgrims smoke a pipe with Native Americans on that first Thanksgiving?).

I now know the proper way to smoke a cigar, and the proper way to pass the port. So much for which to be thankful - but most of all, good family and good friends. Everything else is just icing on the gateau.

Dukan Diet Revisited

2009-11-20T02:22:00.000-08:00

For those of you who've been wondering - why the lack of posts for the last two weeks - it's because I've been focusing on the Dukan diet.
,
A year ago last August, I started the Dukan diet (thanks Davine, for telling me about the book "Je Ne Sais Pas Maigrir" by Pierre Dukan) The goal was never meant to be drastic weight loss - just some basic maintenance i.e. seven pesky pounds or 3-4 kilos. Unlike the three day juice diets I'd used in the past, the Dukan diet is a long-term eating philosophy with very quick results (within the first week). There are four major phases - the attack phase which is total protein - and nothing more, the cruising stage which adds vegetables (you'll never love a tomato better), the consolidation stage (which allows for two feasting meals per week called 'galas', and the final stabilisation phase which means eating 'normal' 6 days a week and reserving 1 day per week (forever!) to be your total protein day. The other 'forever' addition to my diet is oat bran. Three Tablespoons a day which apparently is not only good for losing weight, but losing cholesterol as well.

The naysayers: After having hit my target weight within one month of starting the diet, and keeping my weight stabilized for five months (even while traveling and during the holiday season), my gyn noted how slim I was and when I mentioned the Dukan diet - she said "don't be surprised if the weight all comes back".

I don't know why she said that (except that rebound is the common occurence for most diets) but isn't there ALWAYS someone who wants to throw a wet blanket on things? Come spring time, my gyn's gloomy forecast came true - a few of the pounds came crawling back - but there was one very good reason for that: smugness.

The Dukan diet isn't meant for wimps by any means - and like any good soldier, you don't let down your defenses when you're coasting. In effect, I let the one pure protein day per week fall by the wayside. Big mistake.

So, if you are midway through the Dukan diet - or if you've finally reached your target weight and feel you can give yourself a pat on the back with a splurge of feasting, think again! The reason I say this now is because any of you who've gotten to the target weight stage know exactly how hard you've worked to get there - and it would be a real 'dommage' to let all that hard work go to waste.

The good part about the Dukan diet is that if you've spent so much time already setting up good eating habits - a rebound is NOT the end of the world - far from it. The key is to get back on track as fast as possible.

So, now, I can happily say after over one year, I am STILL at my target weight - but not without some backpeddling - and a lot of jogging!

I know two of you readers have taken on the Dukan diet stateside and Lori, I love the fact that you called the 'gala' meals - 'cheat meals'. Needless to say, once the Dukan crosses the ocean, there'll be some adjustments for 'American tastes'. Rabbit isn't big in the States but it's a low caloric meat - we have plenty of rabbits to spare in Normandy.

For those vegetarian readers, Dr. Dukan's website offers some suggestions for creating a 'pure protein diet' by using soy-based products such as tofu as well as lentils, and low-fat or 0 % dairy products.

Here are some suggestions for avoiding 'fat traps'.
Beware of night time television viewing. Pick up a video instead. The advertisements are almost ALL based on food products.

Holiday baking projects. It's too tempting to cheat!

Wishing you a happy and healthy holiday season!

Booking Opera Tickets in Paris

2009-11-12T09:27:00.000-08:00

Past president Francois Mitterand built the huge Bastille Opera House with the supposed intent that opera might become more accessible to the general public.

I'm reminding myself about these lofty 'intentions' as I wait in line at the ticket office at the Garnier Opera House. There aren't many people in line for a good reason. There are normmally only two things you're likely to hear if you're stupid enough to be standing inn line:

"The performance is sold out." or
"The tickets are not yet on sale." Oh, well, it was just a spontaneous thought to drop in on the off chance that the tickets for the Mozart opera IDOMENEO (which opens in January) might possible be already on sale. It's also one of the rare operas that is performed at the Garnier Opera House for those of us who prefer the original 19th-century opera house to the monolithic 'people's opera' at Bastille.

Make no mistake. Tickets to either Garnier or Bastille are not a simple question of finding your way to the ticket office (and for any of you who've been to the Garnier Opera House lately, you know exactly what I'm talking about. Walk half way around the opera to Rue Scribe and duck under all the scafolding hoping that the Phantom isn't throwing anything from the rooftop today).

The whole process has kind of an Alice in Wonderland feel to it. So, here's the scoop:
Ticket sales open first off on the internet website. Look for the little B (Booking) icons. When the B icon is 'on', you can buy, but also check the schedule for when ticket sales open for a specifiic opera. For example the Mozart opera tickets opened on November 9th at 9 am (only on the internet). Telephone sales start on November 30th for phone numbers only outside of Paris and France. If you want to buy a ticket at the box office - you have to wait until December 14th - and the suggestion is to arrive early in the day if you hope to get a ticket. As for those super cheap tickets i.e. the under 25 Euros - your guess is as good as mine about where those tickets can be bought!

Then there are the Gala events which surprisingly are easier to book online. The beauty of the gala is that if you like to make the evening memorable, you can actually get dressed up and not feel out-of-place.

Opera-going in Paris appears to have turned into a sort of sport - catching the best ticket demands patience and persistance as well as a little bit of information. Be sure to check out the entire Opera de Paris website for the advice about when and how to purchase tickets. To date, I've purchased tickets online and it seems much easier than going to the box office.

Grand Palais: Art en Capital '09

2009-11-04T23:41:00.000-08:00

Usually when we go to museums in Paris, the majority of artists represented are dead and gone. In fact, you could almost call prestigious museums like the Louvre - mausoleums, but Art en Capital is very much alive. Each year, well over a thousand living artists choose their best work to be viewed, critiqued, or ignored - and the French public responds enthusiastically.

On a rainy opening night, scores of invitation holders waited patiently in line but when you're with friends, the line (or the queue if you prefer) moves quickly. What's really exciting (for me) about Art en Capital is being able to meet up with our St. Aubin neighbors, particularly Gerard Daric and Nicole Camillieri. Gerard's painting is part of the Salon des Beaux Arts (he admitted that the first time he exhibited here was in 1952!) That's more than some of our lifetimes.

As for the experience of seeing thousands of contemporary works of art under one roof by both known and lesser known artists - it's mindboggling. Practically an assault. Gluttony. Of course, the saying is that on opening night, people don't normally get a chance to actually look at much art - some come to see and be seen, or set out their line of attack for future solo visits.

In addition to Gerard's painting, I especially liked the sculptural works using recycled products and the exhibit called L'Art Postal created actually not by one artist, but all those who mailed decorated envelopes to M. Proust. (A book has been published called Postal Art). The variety was as whimsical as a spring breeze (here at the outset of winter).

What I found less inspiring was the cacophony of color. In many cases, I sensed that artists substitute bright color for lack of imagination. But that was just an initial 'impression'. Not being a proper art critic, the opinion is based only on first impressions.

Once again, sorry for not including photos in this post. There WILL be photos soon (as soon as I dig out the right cord for uploading photos!) Visiting the Grand Palais at night is a real treat - it was designed for the Universal Exposition (constructed of the same materials as the Eiffel Tower in 1889)

Since its recent restoration, the Grand Palais houses temporary exhibits - Gerard tentioned in the past, even car show events were set up at the Grand Palais. Nowadays,
The temporary exhibits range from Warhol to Renoir, antique shows and contemporary art. Because the shows sometimes don't last that long, there can be long lines - the best place to get tickets is at the FNAC bookstores.

Often, the temporary shows stay open until 9 or 10 pm. I love visiting museums at night. That must be the result of wandering around Eastman House after closing hours. If you're in Paris, what better way to enjoy the city that staying outside all day and visiting museums at night? Most of the big museums like the Louvre, Musee d'Orsay, Quai Branly are open late for at least one night of the week.

TGIF in Normandy

2009-10-26T13:30:00.000-07:00

It's weird - when I'm in Paris, I feel like I'm in New York in the 1980s and now that we're in Normandy, on a Friday night in the 'sticks', I feel like I'm back in Paris - but of course that's because we're with Parisians - delightful, wonderful, fun-loving, chic, intellectual - oh yes, dear State-Side friends, Parisians have gotten a bum rap. Parisians are a wonderful people. Especially when you meet them for the first time in the countryside. But due to such friends being low-key, I will stop my praise here - and move on to the Norman countryside, a town called Cormeilles in particular.

Cormeilles is not exactly a typical farm town. To begin with, it has antique shops (and any town or village in France that has antique shops isn't quite what you'd call a farm town. But leaving aside the antique shops for a moment, `its merit - from the Parisian standpoint is its great fish market, butcher shop, epicerie and bakery (several bakeries). The crowning glory is an excellent gourmet restaurant (sadly, the chef is passing along the baton to a new owner at the end of this month) but we are reveling in one of his last meals before the changeover.

Friday night, yes definitely, a full house, and a very chic set. Yet, we're nowhere near Deauville. There's a good 40 to 50 kilometers between here and the seaside resorts, and yet the Coquille St. Jacques tastes every bit as good as you'd expect from a Deauville seafood restaurant.

You notice I haven't mentioned the name of the restaurant - I'm holding my breath until the changeover has taken place - and will refrain from yeahs or nays until the new couple gets a chance to get into the groove of things.

In the meantime, we've been frequenting the Cormeilles Friday market which has plenty of goodies for cooking at home. One of my favorite stands is the guy who sells mountain cheeses (yes, in Normandy, buying mountain cheese may sound ridiculous - unless you just like moutain cheeses).

Friends often ask us, 'So, what do yo DO in Normandy?'. If the sun is shining, we do anything that allows us to stay outside as long as possible. And when it rains, we'll probably be playing 'Scrabble' en francais, bien sur! Bisous.

Paris Street Fashion - Fall 2009

2009-10-21T02:13:00.000-07:00

The fashionistas have come and gone. Anna Wintour is no longer here 'doing lunch' at Le Voltaire. That leaves us normal street urchins to fend for ourselves. Not a snakeskin trenchcoat to be seen for miles.

What really tickles me is the way fashion magazines try to impose a trouser style or shape for the season. - For the past few seasons, I've been reading about how jeans were supposed to be taking a relaxed form (you may remember that from some of my posts last Fall on Parislogue) but street fashion follows the mood of the moment - and the mood is ANYTHING but relaxed.

I may be in Paris in 2009, but it could just as well be New York in the mid-eighties because the look is all about leggings, slim jeans and boots. Of course the boots have been here for aeons (as well as the indefatigable faux leopard skins) but the super tight jeans (called 'slims') are really slim. Which means for us borderline Size 38s, forget about 'slims'. Trust me. You don't want to go there. Get yourself quickly off to Camaieu where you'll find a pair of perfectly acceptable stovepipe jeans for a more than acceptable price.

But the look that REALLY brings back the eighties are mini dresses served up with opaque leggings. This look was really big in NYC around 1984-85, a particularly cold winter for NY - it snowed abundantly. So if you plan on bringing out leggings for your visit to Paris, be sure to look for that fur-lined mini-skirt to accompany the leggings!

P.S. Note the lack of street fashion photos. I've been refraining this season from stopping strangers on the street to take their photo for a blog. Such an invasion of privacy. But if you're a Parisian that LIKES to have your photo taken, than I would be more than happy take a photo for future posts.

Good Hair Day in Paris Means Finding a Plumber

2009-10-20T11:23:00.000-07:00

Paris has its own logic. The way to find a reputable plumber is to ask your hairdresser. Ask any Parisian what's the worst thing that can happen in your apartment - it's getting a leak. The second worst thing is having your gas heater break down. Or you can simply get air in the radiator pipes at the beginning of the fall season. But then try to find someone to resolve the problem.

You can do as we did - sign up for a contract with a company that promises to come by once a year to clean out your gas heater (chaudiere) but then you read the small print and realize that this doesn't include purging the radiators or whatever else needs to be done to get the get heat moving throughout the apartment.

The hairdresser located on the main floor of our apartment house had a flood last week after torrential rains - and I caught a glimpse of the plumber who responded to her SOS. He looked like a responsible sort - so yesterday I supplicated the hairdresser to share this treasured address.

He showed up this morning and apologized for not arriving at 8:30 on the dot. He rushed to resolve the problem - and when I asked him what we owed him, he said 'Nothing'. Am I dreaming Toto? This is Paris, not OZ.

Needless to say, I followed up the plumber's visit with a trip downstairs to the hairdresser for 'the works'. After all, one hand washes the other.

I will gladly share the name of the hairdresser with you, but you may have to wrestle for the name of the plumber.

Paris Lunch near Gare St. Lazare Train Station

2009-10-19T04:57:00.000-07:00

When it comes to lunch, the traditional Tabac/Bar/Brasserie is a pretty sure thing for a substantial lunch. The kind of place to look for is the Tabac/Brasserie that advertises its 'plat du jour' on a chalkboard in front of the restaurant.

We stopped in at the Tabac/Brasserie called Le Liege at 45, rue d'Amsterdam. Metro: Liege
Liege is the Metro stop just after St. Lazare on the #13 line. It's much easier to negotiate than the crowded St. Lazare exit, far fewer steps and confusing passageways. All you have to do is walk down Rue Amsterdam toward the train station, but have your lunch at the Liege brasserie first, before you catch your train.

I tried the plate of the day - magret de canard served with a light sauce and au gratin potatoes for 11 Euros. We shared the chef's dessert - chocolate mousse surrounding a pear. It was perfect. The entire bill with two main courses, a glass of wine and beer plus a dessert was 33 Euros and change. Not a bad price for lunch in Paris these days. The preferred music station is jazz so we were able to listen to a great rendition of the Marseillaise played on jazz violin. The waiter doesn't remember the name of the musician but he'll remember the next time we're back.
(It may well have been Stephane Grappelli!)

What's less brilliant is my ignorance when it comes to using my Bouygues cell phone. I haven't mastered being able to dig out the phone from the depths of my handbag before the caller signs off and then I manage somehow to press the mute key which makes it impossible to reconnect. Does anybody ever bother reading instruction manuels - who has the time? I keep forgetting that a cell phone has calculators, calendars - the time, alarms, all the conveniences. But with all these conveniences, we managed to miss meeting up with friends before they caught their train back to Caen. Perhaps it's better not to let meetings depend solely on the ability to connect with cell phones - the old fashioned way of arranging meeting points in advance has its merit. So if you want to meet, meet us at the Liege brasserie.

Just Back from Mushooming

2009-10-18T14:29:00.000-07:00

This is the second year of dry weather in October. Not good for mushrooming. Nevertheless, thanks to our fearless gatherers, we ate mushrooms at both meals over the weekend: twenty-two 'bolets' these are the 'cepe's' cousin, a little bit more 'gras' in taste than the 'cepe' but a very nice accompaniment for a 'pot au feu' or pot roast with carrots, turnips and leeks.

You know the mushroom harvest is sparse when you actually have to count how many mushrooms end up in the baskets. Sadly, no 'pied de mouton' this year - and no trompettes de la mort.

But the camaraderie makes up for any lack of mushrooms. The wine tasting helped us forget - songs and fireside stories - a visit from Madame La Comtesse - ahh! That's life at the chateau.

Paris Opera House Bastille: Barber of Seville

2009-10-15T19:29:00.000-07:00

Give me a choice between Garnier Opera House and Bastille and I'll opt for Garnier every time. Bastille would be perfect - for a rock concert. Past president Francois Mitterand may have built the Bastille opera house with the intent that more Parisians might be able to attend the opera - but, for the most part, going to the opera tends to be an event for the privileged - those that can scramble to the internet site in mid-July to secure tickets for an October date. It cost us 116 Euros per ticket for first balcony seats - yet I've been told over the years that the balcony is the best acoustic location for opera. Perhaps that's true at some opera houses - but I found at the Bastille, Figaro (George Petean) was, in certain instances, drowned out by the orchestra.

It's been at least ten years since we went to an Olivier Messiaen concert at the Bastille. Last night's Barber of Seville with mezzo soprano Karinne Deshayes was quite a different experience (October 14th, 2009). If only Coline Serrau, this production's set designer, had been commissioned to decorate the interior of the Bastille as well! Is it possible for a set design to steal the show? The variation of blue and orange/red lighting brings to mind hand-tinted silent film scenes. The depiction of Moorish Spanish palace is exquisite.

George Petean brought plenty of charm and delight as Figaro. Karinne Deshayes showed that she can exercise not only her voice but her ninja capabilities, throwing so much of the set props around - you might want to call her up for your next apartment move.

Supposedly the last night allows for some 'humor' to be thrown in - a little wink of the eye, however according to other internet comments, Count Almaviva's stripping down to a soccer shirt (Zidane's number?) was included starting with the opening performance. More amusing were the few Mancini Pink Panther notes that crept into two scenes.

As for the total 'Bastille opera experience', I have to be honest, the Bastille Opera House is monolithic. If you like that style - fine. I wasn't wowed by the acoustics. There are elevators, but the majority of balcony ticket-holders hoofed it up the steps - and there are plenty, even to get to the first balcony i.e. don't wear your spiky heels!

In fact, you can easily wear your jeans if it isn't opening night. Some people still dress up for the opera but anything goes. (apparently even soccer shirts are okay!) If you are staying around Montparnasse - lucky you. The Montparnasse #95 line can be caught right across the street from the main entrance.

Is it possible to get those 8 Euro tickets that are enticingly advertised on the Opera de Paris website? Who knows? One of these days, I'll figure out how to do that - and if so, we'll be going to the opera much more often. In the meantime, I'm saving up for a return to the Garnier Opera House. There's still no place like it!

Renoir Exhibit at the Grand Palais

2009-10-13T18:16:00.000-07:00

Matisse raved about Renoir's nudes - calling one of his later works - maybe the best nudes ever painted. Seeing is believing - or not believing. Whether you agree or disagree with Matisse's praise, here's an opportunity to see a large sampling of Renoir's later works under one glass roof - at the Grand Palais.

What really surprised me about this exhibit was Chris's reaction. Normally he's the first person to praise Renoir - and he admitted being somewhat disappointed. The paintings that he loves best are those that were painted BEFORE Renoir broke away from the Impressionist movement so if one was hoping to see the famous guinguette scenes (that can be seen at Musee d'Orsay), then you'd be in for a disappointment.

Renoir's attitude toward his painting was quite modest- he saw his work as being a more decorative statement rather than an 'oeuvre'. For example, you could have probably requested Renoir to paint a few living room panels for your Paris apartment (maybe even in a particular theme or color) without insulting the artist. Some of these panels are actually included in the exhibit.

Another surprise for those of us who've only seen his paintings was the exhibit devoted to his sculpture and charcoal drawings. It was also later in life when he moved toward sculpture, but because of his arthritis, he was obliged to collaborate with other artists to be his 'hands'. The result is admirable - and even the busts of his children (which are described in the exhibit as naif) are sweet and frank.

All four of us agreed that his nudes tend toward the same body shape - and one might be tempted to wonder if not always the same body. If you don't like your female forms in the XXX large category - you may not find Renoir's nudes to be so appealing. What is more distressing than that is to note that these 19h century models seemed to have adult bodies and children's heads!

Nevertheless, Renoir's rosy view of the world deserves the attention it has received. There's no better way to appreciate his rich palette than by juxtaposing his paintings alongside a Picasso nude for example (which is also part of the exhibit).

We went to the show on a Monday night because the Grand Palais is open until 10 pm, and because we had purchased the tickets in advance at FNAC bookstore, we were able to go in directly though the 'line-cutter's entrance on the Champs Elysees. The one thing to remember if you buy an advanced ticket at FNAC, you reserve an entrance at a specific time. There's a half hour grace period for arriving late - after that you're out of luck.

We almost missed the half hour grace period. BTW, the Grand Palais, like the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays.

Paris Laundry

2009-10-11T13:32:00.000-07:00

Suffering from Paris envy? Think laundry. This post is dedicated to my sister and D. who are in the process of installing an 'almost' brand new washing machine in their apartment. Well, we've been here in the City of Lights for more years than I care to mention - and after too many years of lugging laundry out to the country, I have FINALLY succumbed to the laundromat. This is definitely not a glamorous way to spend a Sunday afternoon in Paris, but in case you've ever wondered about where and how to do laundry here - it's not much different than in the U.S.

The cost for a 14kilo or large load of laundry (called professional load) is 7 Euros (currently) and 1 Euro for a 10 minute drying cycle. Considering the cost of 'Pressing' or drycleaning, the choice is a no-brainer, but really, there seems like so many better things to be doing in Paris. On the bright side, you're likely to bump into some other travelers that eventually make their way to the LavMat. The Sunday crowd at the Rue Delambre (14eme) is a rather dressy crowd. Matching leather boots and shoulder bags, shiny black 'caddies', that's not cadillac, BTW, but the obligatory pushcart which doubles up as a shopping aid for Monoprix.

And you thought Paris was all about glamour?

Twitter Lashback

2009-10-10T11:43:00.000-07:00

There's only one reason, no two reasons why I've decided to start blogging (again) while in Paris. The first reason is that the word limit on Twitter drives me crazy. The second reason is for friends who may be wondering if I've permanently disconnected from cyberspace. Commercially speaking, yes. This isn't meant to be a blog about Paris - I just happen to be in the City of Light at this point in time. I have nothing to sell. This is just about 'having fun'. You are welcome to come along for the trip. Cheers.